Condensate Drain Line Freezing Problems for Manhattan Homes

May 14th, 2012

As you know, the condensate produced as byproduct during normal operation of any furnace in Manhattan has to be drained away. It’s toxic, very acidic and has been contaminated by the normal combustion that takes place in your furnace, so you certainly don’t want it hanging around.

The typical solution is to have it drain out through a drain pipe, usually beneath the floor of your basement foundation, or down the side of your home and out through a downspout. But have you ever had your condensate line freeze up on you? That is no fun chore to deal with.

A frozen condensate line is usually caused by poor insulation. What happens is that when the temperature drops, the rate of drainage begins to slow down and the droplets begin to freeze one by one, like icicles, until the whole pipe is frozen. This creates obvious problems and can interfere with the proper heating of your home.

Usually, this just means the pipe is poorly insulated, which is a solution that can be remedied. If you have a condensate drain line that freezes anywhere other than under the foundation – for example, one the runs down the side of your home – you can try wrapping it in heat tape.

Sometimes, the best heating repair for this situation once and for all is to reroute the pipe. This can be a somewhat involved process, depending on where the drain line is. For example, if the pipe is poorly insulated because it is buried to shallow beneath the foundation, it will have to be dug up to be rerouted along a warmer path.

If you have already tried insulating the pipe with heat tape or some other solution, but the freezing problem continues to occur, then rerouting is probably your best option. For that kind of job, the average homeowner should consult with a professional, as the job can get challenging and a little dangerous.

It will be worth it to not have to deal with that freezing drain line anymore, though.  Please call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air if you would like to schedule any heating air conditioning or plumbing repairs.

Posted in Best Heating Repair, Furnace in Manhattan, Heating | Comments Off

The Goal of Indoor Air Quality Testing for Manhattan Homes

May 7th, 2012

If you are concerned about the air quality in your Manhattan home, the first step is thorough testing for allergens, pollutants and other potentially harmful irritants in your air. But, what type of testing do you need and how should you order it? Here is a breakdown of what you can test for and why those tests are so important.

Mold Testing

If you suspect mold or recently moved into a new home that had water damage in the past, seriously consider mold testing. While the process is relatively extensive, the benefits are numerous. Most testing involves checking every potential surface and inlet for water sources and mold spores in your home. Dozens of samples are taken and tested in a lab for traces of mold and specific write ups are made of any areas affected by mold so treatment can be done.

Asbestos

Asbestos is most common in old insulation in walls, attics, basements or around pipes. Testing can be done to check if asbestos is present and if it is, the old insulation can be wrapped to ensure it doesn’t cause any damage to your family’s health.

Duct Work

One of the most common problems you will find in a home that hasn’t been tested for indoor air quality problems is the ductwork. Dirty ducts can be filled with debris, dust, mold, droppings and dozens of other things that you continuously breathe day after day. Testing involves video inspection and measurement for common allergens and pollutants.  Duct cleaning is a sure way to improve indoor air quality.

General Pollutants

There are a number of other pollutants that can build up in your home. From lead paint flakes in the air to common allergens like dust, pollen and dander floating freely in your ductwork, pollutants build up over time and need not only to be tested for but removed. Smoke from cigarettes or outdoor pollutants can also be removed from your home after successful testing with the right air cleaning technology.

A good indoor air quality test will measure the levels of each of these contaminants and provide a clear breakdown of how to go about removing them.  Please call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air to schedule your testing today.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Air Quality in Your Manhattan Home, Duct Cleaning, Indoor Air Quality | Comments Off

Fix Water Leaks Before They Cause Major Damage in Manhattan

April 30th, 2012

Water leaks are one of the most destructive and frustrating plumbing repairs in Manhattan homes. If you go without leak detection for too long wood in your home can rot, drywall can get destroyed, and mold can grow in unseen spaces of your home. Spending the time and money to find and fix water leaks before they cause significant damage is one of the most cost-effective actions a homeowner can take.

Sinks

Cabinets beneath kitchen and bathroom sinks are a good place to start. Look for signs of water damage or build up. Mold and mildew are telltale signs of water leaks. Touch the pipes, particularly the areas where they enter the faucet. Run the hot and cold water faucets for a few minutes and repeat the inspection. Finally, fill the sink with water, let it stand a few minutes and open the drain. Now check the drain pipe and the joints that connect it to the sink for leaks.

Dishwashers

Dishwashers can’t easily be checked for leaks without pulling them out from beneath the counter. But you can inspect the water lines that connect the dishwasher to the kitchen sink. For some units, you may be able to shine a flashlight beneath the dishwasher to look for puddles.

Refrigerators

If the refrigerator has an ice making unit in the freezer, locate the water line that feeds the unit. The lines tend to be fragile and can come loose over time. Trace the line back to the source, which is usually the kitchen sink. Inspect the floor around the refrigerator for condensation leaks. Old refrigerators that don’t evaporate condensation can be a major source of water damage.

Toilets

Toilets can leak from the water supply pipes filling the tank and from the seal between the toilet and the waste pipe in the floor. Flush the toilet several times and carefully look for any signs of leaks in the  joints of the water supply pipe and the floor around the base of the toilet. Lift the lid off the tank and flush the toilet. When the tank refills, the water should completely shut off. If the flush valve or water control unit is old, corroded, or loose, the water will continue to run. Running water cools the water delivery pipe to the toilet and the tank, which will cause them to collect condensation in humid weather. The condensation will drip and eventually cause water damage to the floor behind the toilet. Bottom line – don’t ignore a running toilet. Have the water control and flush valve fixed or replaced.

Tubs and Showers

Inspect the caulking around the tub or shower. Old, cracked, or missing caulking can allow water to leak into the wall. Water dripping from a leaky faucet or shower head will go down the drain and not cause any damage, but the faucet may also be leaking water behind the tub or shower.

Washing Machines

For washing machines, make sure the hot and cold water hose connections are open and check for leaks. Inspect the floor around the washer for signs of puddles or water damage.

Hot Water Heaters

Finally, inspect the hot water heater for leaks, and the boiler if the house has hot water heating. The first place to look is the floor around the appliance, but also look at the joints where the water pipes connect.

Please call Standard Plumbing and Heating and Air Conditioning with any concerns.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Leak Detection, Plumbing, Plumbing Repairs in Manhattan | Comments Off

What is Involved in Replacing a Main Sewer Line in Manhattan?

April 23rd, 2012

Installing a main sewer line in Manhattan is a major construction project that should only be done by a licensed contractor. There are strict codes for accessing and altering the municipal sewer lines in the Manhattan area that must be carefully followed. You must also locate all other service lines – gas, water, underground cable –  within the construction zone. Contractors are familiar with the process of obtaining the necessary work permits and other approvals.

Locate and Expose the Existing Line

The first step is locating and exposing the existing line, which could be done with a vido pipe inspection. The contractor will locate where the line leaves your house and remove the dirt near the foundation to expose the line. A municipal planning map will give the location of where the line ties into the main sewer line. The contractor will use stakes and strings to mark the approximate location of the line across your yard, and then excavate until the line is fully exposed. Unless the distance between your house and the street is very short, the contractor will probably use power equipment to expose the line.

Cut and Remove the Old Line

Before cutting and removing the old line, the contractor may need to brace it if it’s made of cast iron or some other metal to prevent it from bending and cracking after it’s been cut at one end. The end nearest the house is usually cut first to ensure any residual material in the pipe has drained into the municipal line. Waste water moves passively, by gravity, so the line from the house to the sewer will run downhill. That also ensures that municipal waste water doesn’t run back into the line. The slope or angle of the run and distance from other utility lines is critical and must comply with local codes.

Choice of Materials

Main sewage pipes are usually made of either cast iron, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene). Some older homes in Manhattan may still have lead sewage pipes. Cast iron had been the most frequently used material in home construction and is still popular, but PVC and ABS are the materials most frequently used in new home construction. They are cheaper than metal, easier to work with, and highly resistant to corrosion. However, the choice of materials will depend on whether a portion of the old line is to remain intact. The contractor will not want to splice a PVC line between two cast iron lines. Local codes in the Manhattan area may also call for specific materials. Like all plumbed lines, sewer lines are joined by prefabricated joints made of the same material as the pipes. Whether new joints will be included in the line replacement depends on how much of the old line is to be removed.  ABS and PVC pipes are attached to joints with glue. Cast iron pipes can be threaded or have bell-and-spigot (large diameter and small diameter) ends that fit together. Bell-and-spigot joints are then sealed with oakum, which is a flexible, fibrous material, and lead.  If you have any questions about this process please call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Drain and Installation Installation, Drain and Sewer, Video Pipe Inspection | Comments Off

How Much Electricity Does a Gas Furnace Use in Manhattan, KS?

April 16th, 2012

The answer to the question “How much electricity does a gas furnace in Manhattan use” could sound like the lead-in to a silly Groucho Marx joke: “None, because it’s a gas furnace! HONK!”

In fact, electricity is necessary for several important tasks as part of the more efficient gas furnaces.

Lighting the Torch

Gas is the fuel that fires the flame that heats the air that warms your home, but electricity is the spark that lights the gas.  The flame is not roaring all the time or just ignites spontaneously.  Think of the athlete igniting the Olympic torch.

A low voltage electric signal from the thermostat opens the valve that controls the amount of gas flow and therefore the flame.  A solenoid coil in the valve senses gas and ensures flame to prevent an explosion or leakage, then opens wide to let the heating begin and shuts down when the desired temperature is reached.

Blown Away

All that heated air must be moved through the ductwork and distributed room to room to create the comfort and this is done by a motor-driven fan which is the largest use of electricity in a gas furnace.  The motor turns on and shuts down according to the relationships between flame, heated air and the thermostat setting.

Known as a draft inducer, a second fan is employed to remove the toxic fumes that are the residue of the burned gas.  These fumes which can be deadly are usually pushed through a PVC pipe to the exterior and released safely into the atmosphere.

Sum Total

The amount of electricity used to ignite the flame is very small, phased through a low-voltage impulse wire, nearly too small to even show on your meter.  Most of the electrical energy contributing the critical role of powering the two fans in gas furnaces adds up typically to less than 600 watts at any given time or about the same as a few light bulbs.

While gas furnaces are much more efficient and less costly than any kind of electric heat, they are useless (and even dangerous) without that little bit of electrical help.  Please call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air with any questions.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Gas Furnace in Manhattan, Heating, Thermostat | Comments Off

Components of an Air Conditioner in Manhattan

April 9th, 2012

Ever wondered how an air conditioner in Manhattan keeps you cool throughout the summer? How exactly does it use electricity to create cool air and dehumidify your home? It’s actually an ingenious bit of technology developed over a century ago using four major components and a thermostat.

How these parts are implemented may change depending on the type of air conditioner you have and how much space it’s tasked with cooling, but the following components are standard in all AC units:

  • Evaporator – There are two sides to an air conditioner – the warm side and the cool side. The Evaporator is on the cool side and is paired with a fan that blows air over the coils. The air then chills and blows into your home to keep you cool.
  • Condenser – The condenser is the device responsible with transferring heat within the air conditioner. An air conditioner doesn’t actually make anything cool – it just removes heat from one environment and places it into another. By removing heat from one set of coils and transferring it to another, it creates the cooling effect that the evaporator then uses to cool your home
  • Expansion Valve – The expansion valve is responsible for regulating how much refrigerant passes into the evaporator coils. This refrigerant immediately expands when it reaches the evaporator coil due to the pressure drop.
  • Compressor – Once the refrigerant has depressurized and turned back into a gas, it is passed to the compressor which is then tasked with converting it back into a liquid and passing it into the warm part of your air conditioner.

And of course, this entire mechanism is monitored and regulated by a thermostat which tells the air conditioner when to turn on and what level of cooling is needed by your home. The system can also be setup in one of a couple different ways. Self-contained units, like window units, house the entire mechanism in a single box, while a central air conditioner separates the two units – the hot side with the compressor and condenser are placed outside the house.

Because there are so many parts and they work in harmony to create the cool environment you want, your need regular air conditioner maintenance. Regular maintenance is a must for every component, so call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air with any questions.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Air Conditioner Maintenance, Air Conditioners in Manhattan, Air Conditioning | Comments Off

Manhattan KS Plumbing Repair Question: What’s Causing that Leaky Toilet?

April 2nd, 2012

Most homeowners have been there. You go into the bathroom in the morning, still a little bleary-eyed from sleep, and are shocked to find that the floor is wet. Then your realize your toilet is leaking.

The tricky part is determining where that leak is coming from in order to fix it. Try these simple methods to diagnose the problem with your Manhattan plumbing quickly.

 Sweating Toilet

One possibility is that your toilet is not leaking at the base itself, but that the toilet is sweating and the liquid is pooling at the base. It is easy enough to make this distinction; just check the toilet throughout the day to see if there is any moisture on the outer surface. If so, your toilet is sweating.

“Sweating” is caused by humid air condensing on the cold porcelain. The only way to fix this problem is to insulate the toilet.

 Bad Tank Seal

Another possibility is a bad seal. There are two main seals on your toilet that can leak: the tank seal and the wax seal.

To check for a bad tank seal, put some food coloring in the tank. You don’t need a lot, just enough to noticeably change the color of the water. Then, let the toilet sit without being used for a few hours. If the water on the floor is colored, then the tank seal on your toilet needs to be replaced.

 Bad Wax Seal

The other seal that can leak is the wax seal that is located at the actual base of the toilet. Diagnosing this problem is similar to the tank seal method above.

Again, add food coloring, this time to the water in the bowl. Then flush and repeat. After adding coloring the second time, let the toilet sit like in the steps above. If the colored water starts collecting around the base of the toilet after a few hours, the wax seal needs to be replaced.

Once you have determined the cause of the leaking, you can properly fix it. Some home owners are savvy enough to do toilet repairs on their own, but if that doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, call in a Manhattan plumber. Fixing a toilet seal is a relatively quick job and worth the expense.

If you are having any problems with your bathroom plumbing, give Standard Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning a call today!

Tags: , , ,
Posted in Plumbing | Comments Off

Plumbing Basics for Manhattan Residents

March 28th, 2012

There are a lot of pipes, drains, fixtures and appliances in your home carrying out some pretty incredible tasks.  To many people, plumbing in Manhattan is just another system that makes their lives easier. But, if something goes wrong, it’s important that you know exactly what to do and for that, you need to know how your system works.

Fundamental Plumbing

Plumbing is based entirely on the properties of gravity and water pressure. A plumbing system has two basic systems – one that brings water in and one that removes that water once you’ve used it. To bring water into your home, it is pressurized. With enough pressure, it can travel against gravity, rising in the pipes to your fixtures.

Every fixture in your home has a valve on it that allows you to shut off the flow of water when making plumbing repairs or if there is an emergency. If the emergency is big enough, you can turn the main water supply valve off outside your home as well.

Drainage Systems

While the water coming into your home is relatively simple – pressurized cold water goes directly to the fixtures and hot water comes from your hot water heater – the drainage system is slightly more complicated.

Once water has exited the faucets in your fixtures, it is no longer pressurized so gravity is needed to remove it. Each drain consists of a few basic parts – the flange, tail piece, trap, and drain extension. When you put water down a drain it goes into the trap and flows into the drain extension, eventually to the sewer line.

The trap is designed to always hold a small amount of water so that sewer gasses cannot back up into your fixtures. Vents are installed in your home as well to ensure there is always air in the plumbing system. That air ensures a vacuum doesn’t generate. If it did, water couldn’t flow out of the house. It’s the same as pouring from a small hole in a can – if you poke a hole in the opposite side, it flows much faster because air enters the can to displace the liquid.

Fixing Plumbing Problems

A plumbing system is surprisingly simple to work on if you understand the basics. But, that doesn’t mean a professional isn’t needed for most major jobs. Because a single fixture or pipe can have an impact on the entire system and because water leakage can be incredibly damaging, it is best to call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air whenever you need a second opinion or are unsure you can handle it on your own.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Plumbing, Plumbing in Manhattan, Plumbing Repair | Comments Off

Taxes and Energy Savings for Manhattan Homes

March 22nd, 2012

Choosing an energy efficient heating installation isn’t just good for the environment; it is good for your wallet too! Not only do you save money by lowering your energy bills with high efficiency heating replacements each month but you are also able to get some tax credits. While some of these credits have changed since 2010, there are still plenty of ways that you can save money by improving the energy efficiency of your home.  Taxes are confusing, but this is one tax credit that is easy to understand without your accountant. We found this great guide on Bizactions.com that explains exactly what you can do to improve your home and claim these tax credits.

The federal government offers two different tax credits for energy-saving home improvements. The rules for one credit changed for the worse since last year. The other credit remains as generous as ever. Here’s what you need to know if you want to claim these credits this year.

1. Modest Credit for Garden Variety Energy-Saving Improvements

The first credit equals 10 percent of certain qualified home improvement expenditures plus 100 percent of certain other expenditures–subject to a rather stingy overall credit cap of $500. And you must reduce that already-skimpy cap by credits claimed in earlier years.

While the $500 cap is uninspiring, the good news is the credit covers a broad range of energy-saving expenditures for your principal U.S. residence, and there are no income limits. However improvements made to vacation homes and foreign residences are not eligible.

You may remember that the 2010 version of this credit was much more generous. It equaled 30 percent of qualified expenditures — subject to a $1,500 cap. The current version with the $500 cap is scheduled to expire at year end. Because it is doubtful that the credit will be extended, you may need to take action this year to benefit.

Here are more details on the $500 credit.

Claiming the Credit for Improvement Costs

For the following home improvements, the maximum credit equals 10 percent of qualified 2011 expenditures up to the $500 limit (reduced by any credit claimed in earlier years).

Exterior windows including skylights and storm windows, subject to a $200 credit cap.

Exterior doors including storm doors.

Insulation.

Metal and asphalt roofs with heat-reduction components.

For these items, you cannot count costs for site preparation, assembly, or installation.

Claiming the Credit for Equipment Costs

For the following items, the maximum credit equals 100 percent of qualified 2011 expenditures up to the $500 limit (reduced by any credit claimed in earlier years).

High-efficiency central air conditioners; electric heat pumps, electric heat pump water heaters; water heaters that run on natural gas, propane or oil; and biomass fuel stoves used for heating or hot water. The cap for these items is $300.

Furnaces and hot water boilers that run on natural gas, propane, or oil–subject to a cap of $150.

Advanced main air circulating fans used in natural gas, propane, and oil furnaces–subject to a cap of $50.

For these items, costs for site preparation, assembly, and installation are eligible for the credit.

Manufacturer’s Certification Is Required

You must obtain a manufacturer’s certification that the product in question qualifies for the $500 credit. The certification may be on the product packaging, or you may be able to print it out from the manufacturer’s website. In any case, keep the certification with your tax records. You won’t need to attach the certification to your Form 1040, but Form 5695 (Residential Energy Credits) will be included with your return.

 2. Bigger Credit for More Expensive Energy-Saving Equipment

The second credit equals 30 percent of qualified expenditures to buy and install more-exotic (and expensive) energy-saving equipment for your home.

Because the expenditures for these items can be big, the credit amounts can be big too. And there are no income limits. Even billionaires can take advantage.

This second credit is available through 2016, so there is no big hurry. If your 2011 credit is so large that you cannot use it all up on this year’s return, you can carry the excess forward to 2012 and beyond.

Qualified Expenditures

The credit equals 30 percent of qualified expenditures including costs for site preparation, assembly, installation, piping, and wiring for the following gear.

Solar water heating equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Solar electricity generating equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Wind energy equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Geothermal heat pump equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Fuel cell electricity generating equipment for your U.S. principal residence. Vacation homes don’t count here. For this part of the credit, the maximum annual credit amount is limited to $500 for each .5 kilowatt hour of fuel cell capacity that you add during that year.

Special Rules

You cannot claim the credit for equipment used to heat a swimming pool or hot tub, and special rules apply to expenditures for residential co-op and condominium buildings.

You Must Get a Manufacturer’s Certification

Again, you are required to obtain a manufacturer’s certification stating that the equipment in question qualifies for the credit. You don’t need to attach it to your Form 1040, but keep it with your tax records. A completed Form 5695 will be included with your return.

Finally, keep proof of exactly much you spend — including any extra amounts for site preparation, assembly, installation, piping, or wiring.

Check for Additional Cash Inducements

You might also be eligible for state and local income tax benefits, subsidized state and local financing deals, and utility company rebates. These additional inducements can amount to hundreds of dollars or more.  If you have any questions about these upgrades please call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Heating, Heating Installation, Heating Replacement | Comments Off

Manhattan HVAC Q/A: Your Furnace Not Blowing Enough Air?

March 16th, 2012

Have you ever been in your Manhattan home in the winter, listening to the furnace churn away trying to heat the house, but noticed that the whole place is still cold? If you checked the heating vents in this situation, you would probably find that there is not much air flow coming out of them, which is why you are still freezing.

It is entirely possible for the furnace to be burning away, producing hot air, without enough of that warm air ever actually being distributed through your home. So it continues to run and run, resulting in excess wear and tear on the heating system that will probably shorten its productive life, as well as keeping your whole home too chilly.

Why does that happen? There are a several common culprits for insufficient air flow from a furnace. Below is a list of the most frequent offenders, along with solutions for each.

  • Cause: Dirty or broken air filter. An air filter that has accumulated too much build up or is damaged will slow down air flow in a hurry.
    Solution: Clean or replace the air filter as necessary. This should be part of routine furnace maintenance in order to ensure efficient operation. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations to see how often you should check your air filter(s).
  • Cause: Damaged, corroded, broken or collapsed ductwork. Your ducts are like the road that warm air travels on. If the road is out, then no one can get through. Simple as that.
    Solution: Have a professional inspect and repair ductwork. A routine ductwork check is also part of a professional’s annual maintenance inspection.
  • Cause: Blower fan not blowing enough. This can be caused by a loose fan belt, or a dirty motor.
    Solution: First, clean the blower fan and the area around it. It has to deal with a lot of air, so it naturally becomes dirty over time. If that doesn’t fix it, the fan belt probably needs to be replaced.

There are some other causes of improper furnace air flow, but those are the most common and easiest to detect and repair. If your heat registers are not returning any warm air at all, that is likely a different problem and you should call Standard Plumbing, Heating and Air to look at the system right away.

Tags: , ,
Posted in Furnace, Heating, Repair Ductwork | Comments Off

« Older Entries